expertvillage asked:


Beans are good beginner crops for heirloom seed savers. Learn about getting into bean heirloom seed saving from an organic farmer in this free gardening video.

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Nov
25
Filed Under (Gardening) by Stephanie
senn asked:


Plz Give me important tips…..some necessary points which must be taken care of while gardening!!!!

Early thanks to all………!
thnx all for ur kind suggestions..these might help me in my gardening process….!!!

Thanks M A N for taking the pain of searching a related website..thnks again!

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Nov
24
Filed Under (Gardening) by Stephanie
emzie<3 asked:


I am new to the whole gardening thing and i just planted 4 yellow tomato plants. Do you have any gardening tips?

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TCMJim asked:


I am especially interested in non genetically modified sources for hot peppers. There is one pepper newly discovered that reaches 1,000,000 Scoville heat units that I would like to try. I am also interested in high quality heirloom plant and seed varieties.
Thanks,

Jim

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new to gardening asked:


I just bought a house with great gardening beds. The only issue is I’m new to gardening and would like to get rid all the plants currently growing there to add new ones. I’d like to pot the rosemary instead of having it on the bed because it seems so invasive. The tomato plants seem to be done for the season. Do I pull them? There are also strawberries, thyme, and others I have no idea what they are.

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Nov
23
Filed Under (Gardening) by Stephanie
reader.erin asked:


Every time I buy a houseplant or look something up that’s related to any kind of gardening I get completely lost in all the terminology, latin names, etc.

I’d like to get better at gardening and growing things without having to get my degree in horticulture. Are there any sources (websites/books) for beginners who don’t understand all the “big words” ?

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Nov
22
Filed Under (Gardening) by Stephanie
Bare Bones Gardener asked:


With the old familiar variety of garden hoses as well as black Poly irrigation systems, there are two major problems that occur along the length of the hose or pipe, one is cracking and/or splitting of the hose/pipe and the second problem is the familiar kinking of the hose/pipe. So what can you do about it besides going out and buying a new hose or roll of poly’ pipe? Well there is at least one repair method that should help with either problem. Without the cost and problems of putting expensive joiners into your watering system.

Split Hoses/Pipes

What do you do once your garden hose or irrigation pipe has developed a crack or split after your son has mowed over it or you’ve managed to drive over it once too often?

With either type of system, you could cut out the section of the damaged hose or pipe and put in a joiner, but sometimes this is impractical or impossible. Then why not look at repairing it instead of replacing it. Use the same method as you would for a kinked hose. Which is listed below.

Kinking Hoses/Pipes

Once a garden hose or irrigation pipe has jack-knifed back on itself at a particular spot, it will continue to do so for the life of the hose/pipe. This is because it has become weakened at that point. Again you have the option to cut out the weakened area and join the remaining parts of the hose. Or you will have to look at repairing the weakened area to stop it kinking in future, you can do this by bracing the weakened area/s by the following method . . .

What you will need to repair split/kinked hoses or irrigation pipes

An excess section of garden hose or irrigation pipe A Sharp knife or blade Container of hot water Measure and cut off a small section of hose/pipe, approximately three inches long, or as long as is needed to cover over the weakened or broken area. Cut this section down its length on one side only.

Soften the hose or pipe section in hot water. Open it up and wrap this like a bandage around the weakened section of hose/pipe.

This acts like a splint over the weak area, strengthening it so that at that point it will not kink or fountain out water anymore.

If you are repairing a split area of the hose you may have to look at sealing the hose with something like a silicon sealant. But you will find that simply putting the hose splint will greatly reduce and/or stop the leak.

The hose or pipe splint will not move off of the weakened or split area because it rehardens fairly quickly as it cools, this tightens its grip over the weak part of your hose/pipe.

Repeat this procedure for other areas that are split or are prone to kink of the garden hose or irrigation pipe that you are using.

So if that garden hose or irrigation system of yours is split in one or more places or is kinking all the time, and it is frustrating you no end, then do something other than throwing it out. Either repair it or at least keep the old hose or pipe to repair your future watering systems.



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expertvillage asked:


Many kinds of squash can derive form heirloom seeds kept and cross-pollinated. Learn about growing squash heirloom seeds from an organic farmer in this free gardening video.

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Paranormal Princess asked:


I’m trying to find the gardening device that takes a lot of the work out of gardening and so far, I’ve had no success.

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Nov
15
Filed Under (Gardening) by Stephanie
gardeningm asked:


The tomato originated in the Andes, South America where tomatoes grow wild. It is believed that they were first cultivated by the Aztecs and Incas, possibly as early as 700 AD. The tomato plant arrived in Europe in the 16th century, supposedly brought back from Central America by the Spanish Conquistadors, although another legend suggests that two Jesuit priests took them to Italy from Mexico.

At that time tomatoes were also known as wolf’s peach and Peruvian apple. In the UK, the Elizabethans thought the bright red colour of tomatoes was a danger signal and regarded them as dangerous fruits. In fact, it is true that tomatoes are related to the nightshade family.

Tomatoes are sub-tropical plants and therefore require a full sun position when grown in temperate zones. A position against a wall or fence will give an even better chance of success as long as they can receive sufficient water.

Tomato plants grow very well in raised beds, they appreciate the soil conditions which provide moisture without water-logging.

Two or three weeks before planting, dig the soil over and incorporate as much organic matter, such as compost or well rotted manure, as possible. The aim is to make the soil able to retain the moisture needed so much by tomatoes.

Tomatoes are unable to tolerate any degree of frost, the timing for planting or sowing outside is therefore key to successfully growing tomatoes. If the tomato seeds are to be sown directly outside (not really suitable in cooler climates), they must be sown when the soil temperature is (and will remain) above 10C (50F) - any lower and the seeds will not germinate. In practical terms this normally means 3 weeks after the last frost date in your area.

Where the seeds are sown under cover (poly tunnels or cloches) or indoors, aim to sow the seeds so that they reach the stage where they can be transplanted outside, three weeks after the last frost date.

Tomato plants plants take roughly 7 weeks from sowing to reach the transplanting stage and they should be transplanted outside one or two weeks after your last frost date. Therefore you should sow them 7 weeks before you plan to transplant them outside.

Bush varieties do well for cultivation outdoors because they require no pruning for most of the season. Remove any yellow or decaying foliage as soon as possible to avoid the spread of disease.

If your bush tomatoes become too large to support themselves, either trim out a few major branches or add more support canes - the side branches can then be tied into the additional support canes. Limit the number of trusses of tomatoes to seven or eight by pinching out any surplus ones.

Upright varieties are commonly cultivated in pots, grow-bags, the greenhouse and sometimes outdoors in open soil. When the first fruits begin to form, the plant will produce side-shoots in between the main stem and the leaf stems.

These side shoots should be removed by pinching them out with the fingers. If allowed to grow they will produce a mass of foliage but few tomatoes. Any shoots which have been overlooked and allowed to grow should also be removed.

Lower leaves which show any signs of yellowing should also be removed to avoid the risk of infection.

When the plant has developed six or seven trusses of tomatoes (normally around July time), ’stop’ the plant by breaking off the growing tip. If any more than seven trusses of tomatoes begins to develop, pinch them out to encourage the plant to produce good quality tomatoes rather than an abundance of low quality late-maturing fruit.

Pick as soon as the fruits are ripe (colour and size will identify this) for the best flavour - eat as soon as possible. This also encourages the production of more fruit. As soon as a frost threatens, harvest all the fruit immediately and ripen them on a window sill. With upright varieties, it is possible to gently flatten the plants onto the soil and cover with horticultural fleece to protect them from the frost.



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